In the late autumn, around the region of Góis, the chestnut trees start to drop their fruit – the “castanhas”. It is a tradition that must surely pre-date Christianity by centuries, to hold “magustos”, or chestnut roasts, in local communities, schools, day centres and gatherings of friends. At the magusto, the chestnuts are roasted on a bed of pine-needles, and eaten as soon as they have cooled sufficiently to be peeled. It can be a raucous occasion as people squat close to the fire to gather their chestnuts and carry out the tradition of smearing each other’s faces with the ashes! This is the time that the new wine is drunk, or jeropiga , which is a sweet fortified wine.
Magustos have become associated with All Saints Day (November 1st) and with St. Martin’s Day. The legend of St. Martin tells that he was a Roman soldier in the 4th century, who came across a beggar in Amiens, and since the weather was wretched and the beggar unclad, cut his cloak in two and gave half away. He died, after a lifetime of  charitable deeds, on November 11th, which coincides with the first chestnuts of the season – and hence the association (although some say it was also his favourite food!)