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Carvalhal sits high on the side of the valley. The land behind the village rises to the summit of Caveiras at 1029m. Its prominent position gives the village spectacular views over the Ceira valley. The village is easily recognisable from the surrounding area because of the large white modern building on the slope above the village – the severe lines of the building out of place against the rustic architecture of the houses of Carvalhal.
From the road above the village one looks down on a random collection of old and new buildings. One gets the impression that the streets have been made to fit round the buildings, rather than the other way around, as the network of narrow cobbled roads twist and divide round the houses. Whether by design or by accident, this changing direction prevents the streets from becoming wind tunnels in this exposed location. Between the houses can be seen occasional glimpses over the hills and distant mountains.
The chapel in the village is dedicated to São João Baptista, and the village’s festa was always on São João’s day (24 of June). The chapel stands at the entrance to the old village. The village is built from the local stone, and the roofs are made from red tiles, made from the local clay in the valley below Carvalhal at Lomba da Vinha.
Carvalhal is named after the oak trees (‘carvalhas’) that used to grow in the area. The village is officially known as Carvalhal do Sapo, since there exists another village in the freguesia called Carvalhal Miúdo. To distinguish between the two, ‘do Sapo’ was added by the Câmara, in reference to the river that runs below the village (‘Sapo’ meaning ‘frog'). The inhabitants of the village are said to have preferred the designation ‘Carvalhal do São João’, after the local saint. In the 1527 population census of the region, both Carvalhal, with 5 permanent dwellings, and Carvalhal Miúdo are mentioned, so clearly the two villages have co-existed for centuries. At the top of the village, the battered and flaking signpost still reads simply ‘Carvalhal’.
In the past about 90 houses were inhabited, and people lived in community and mutual support. As elsewhere in this region the inhabitants of Carvalhal lived traditionally from agriculture and keeping goats and sheep. The sheeps’ wool was sold to traders that went from one village to the other. Wolves used to steal many goats and sheep, and at night could be heard howling. Sr. César Moreiro, a present-day resident of the village, remembers that he saw the last wolf in 1944.
The villagers were no longer allowed to make charcoal once the forestry was planted (by order of the Junta de Freguesia) but sometimes they did it anyway in the dark of night. Carvalhal also had many chestnut trees. The chestnuts were dried above laths over the fire, peeled by stamping over them, and stored in “arcas”(chests) so the villagers could eat them all year. They also sold chestnuts to the region of Pampilhosa da Serra.
There were two women weavers, and two shoemakers in the village. One of the shoemakers, Manuel Martins de Almeida, was very famous for his storytelling, and whenever he could, he spoke in rhyme.
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On the Ribeiro do Carvalhal there were once eight mills for grinding maize and rye.
These were: - Moinho da Foz das Vinhas, Moinho dos Azereiros, and five mills in a line at the Ponte da Ribeira that ground using water from the same levada.
There was also a lagar (olive press) at the Ponte da Ribeira.
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